As the last and most beautiful castle built in this area, not to mention the only one still standing, Matsumoto-jo is rightfully the center of attention in the historical annals of this town. Yet many other castles once dotted the mountains to the north, east and south. And at least one was larger than Matsumoto Castle; larger, in fact, than any of the others that have stood watch over these Fuchu Plains.

Big, Mysterious Haibara-jo

It is unclear when Haibara Castle was built, as there are no known written records. What is known is that Ogasawara Sadamune, upon his appointment as the lord and protectorate of the Fuchu region of Shinano in the first half of the 14^th Century, expanded the castle that already existed here. This castle was built by the Haibara clan, the people who already called this area home. Thus the history of Haibara Castle goes back at least to the early 1300s.

 

 

Despite the lack of historical records, evidence that Ogasawara built up Haibara Castle can be seen in the defensive structures and features that remain, many centuries after their construction. The dirt mounds, the dry moats, the rock walls still visible today reflect those found in the other area castles the Ogasawara clan built and maintained: Hayashi, Kirihara, and Shimofuri.

 

 

 

Expansion & Destruction

Ogasawara Sadamune expanded and strengthened Haibara Castle to bolster his defensive capabilities in case his land was attacked. His efforts, however, would prove to be in vain. In 1550 Takeda Shingen fought his way up into the region from the south, conquering everyone and everything in his path. As Haibara Castle was the southernmost fortress of the Ogasawara strongholds it would be the first to fall under attack, and the first to be taken.

 

 

What Was & What Remains

Well south of the center of Matsumoto, Haibara Castle and the wooded mountainside that bears its remains seem scarcely visited by anyone but those who live in this quiet little town. Nearby Renga-ji Temple, silent though it can be, does offer a pantina of life.

 

Just up the road, Haibara Shrine wears a healthy if aged face; one of a place where people still come, to carry on the traditions that long predate even the oldest of castles.

 

 

Man-made contours in the dirt and age-old piles of stone may not be enough to draw one to visit this out-of-the-way place. But for some, such things can stir the imagination as to what stood here long ago.

 

And then there are those who come for entirely different reasons.

 

For the sake of history, please leave the mountain bike down in front of Renga-ji.

 

If you go, just know: it may not be all that far (depending on what you’re used to), but it is a healthy climb on two wheels. Gambatte ne!